“Clothes help bind us to our gender.” Or maybe, I would use “helped.” Maybe our physical bodies taught us about dividing our gender, a stereotype. However, clothes are not an issue for defining our gender now.
The Moschino Men’s and Women’s pre-fall collection is a fetish playground for Jeremy Scott to discover the versatility of our gender. The fetish elements blended in tailored jackets, tuxedos and dresses, the slogans are aggressively sexy: “X-rated,” “SPANK,” “PLEASURE,” “PAIN.”The suspenders are installed on some evening looks, with a black leather tie, and a gimp mask. There are always naughty twists after elegance: a Hepburn-perfect green tweed coat - come apparently unadorned until you investigate the attached corset on the back. A “Police officer” in his leather boots, walked down the runway with a corset and long, dramatic black tulle coat. A PVC booted bad-girl-show-girl look reminded me of Madonna’s symbolic fetish look, and there are several militaries inspired references: some fantasies for the full leather biker look, the police hats in leather, and a black floor-length coat with long military boots.
Those prints shown towards the end of the show, often abstracted by the in and out folds of the fabric, reproduce the sensually illicit Polaroids of Italian furniture designer Carlo Mollino. Looking at this designer’s photography work, he had had a secret passion for taking images with anonymous one-time-only models in poses of apparent wantonness.
Scott takes these male-gaze made erotic images and reappropriates them for the female wearer. And the Moschino men, they are powerful, dark and dominant.
Text: Gareth Chow